Forgotten no more: the rebirth of wine
When you think of Lake Como, luxury, historic villas, and breathtaking views probably come to mind... Yet Lake Como wine has an ancient tradition, shaped by passion and remarkable stories of resilience. Here, between mountains and water, wine enjoyed centuries of glory, endured hard blows... and is now experiencing a remarkable revival.
Once Upon a Time: Lariano Wine
Vines were cultivated on the hills of Como as far back as Roman times. It is said that even Tolstoy, after staying on the heights of Tavernola, wrote about vineyards coloring the slopes and grapes used for their healing properties. For centuries, Lariano wine was light, fresh, and familiar... perfect for local tables.
The Double Blow: Phylloxera and Silk
In the mid-19th century, winemaking in Como suffered a double blow: phylloxera, an insect that devastated the roots of European vines, wiped out entire vineyards in just a few years; at the same time, the booming silk industry led to the conversion of land to mulberry trees for silkworm farming. Within a short time, centuries of Como’s winemaking culture were erased.
From Decline to Revival
After decades of neglect, young producers and historic wineries are bringing back artisan winemaking, especially around the Upper Lake near Domaso. Here, the unique microclimate creates wines with strong character: Domasino, fresh and aromatic; Verdesa, a delicate local white; and reds from Merlot and Sangiovese.
Since 2008, the Terre Lariane IGT designation has protected wines from the provinces of Como and Lecco. Today, historic grape varieties are being rediscovered and innovative techniques explored—such as underwater aging, with bottles maturing in the depths of the lake.